Noel in the DR

Today is the first day with some sun in a week! It looks like Tropical Storm Noel has finally moved on. Thanks to everyone for your notes and check-ups - my area wasn't hit too badly, and my family and I are fine. The storm was an interesting experience, though, and I'd like to tell you a little about it.

It started raining last Friday, a steady rain that reminded me of chilly October days at home. That's pretty unusual here, since most rains are heavy cloud-bursts that clear quickly, but for some reason I took no particular notice. On Saturday, I went to the capital (about an hour away) to visit friends. The roads were fine despite the rain, and I had no trouble getting to the city. Once there, it rained and rained, until we all started commenting on it: "Wow I don't think it's rained like this since I've been here" and "Oh the power's gone out! How unusual for this neighborhood... I wonder why..." For some reason none of us knew about the Noel weather predictions.

After a lovely, though rainy, 24-hours, I headed back to San Pedro Sunday afternoon. The first bus was lashed with rain, and the sea was crashing against the highway as we drove back to the city. The local San Pedro bus (and by 'bus' I mean deteriorating 9-person van with Saran-Wrap for windows) was doing fine until we came to several blocks of the route covered in about 1.5 feet of water. The cobrador (guy who takes your bus money) slid the van's side-door closed (which I've never seen happen before) and we headed into the water. Water splashed against the windows and leaked in under the door. And still I didn't find this much out of the ordinary.

[Side note here: In retrospect, traveling during a tropical storm is not advisable and I don't think I'll do it again. Also, the flooding I just described is not that uncommon here after a big storm - very few streets have adequate drainage. I think my lack of surprise/shock at all these things, though, is for another reason. My threshold for "surprise/shock" has risen tremendously in these last three-months. Everything is so surprising/shocking, really. Now, I think I over-corrected my dial, because there is plenty surprising/shocking about a tropical storm.]

I got home just fine and had a pleasant evening. (We ate nothing but big bowls of rice pudding for supper, and I am A-OK with that.) The family mentioned TS Noel at the table, but I still didn't think about it until the next morning, when I woke up to no power. I headed down to breakfast and then to the clinic, not thinking that maybe we'd be closed, like the schools and stores in the city. But we were open, despite no power and no public transportation.

Now, the clinic desperately needs a new roof before the upstairs can be human-friendly. Right now, the windows don't close and the whole place is covered in bat/pigeon droppings, which can cause serious illness. Nevertheless, this is where the community health office is, and where we store all our HIV meds. On Monday, three of us headed upstairs to find the boxed meds sitting in an inch of water. We pulled tables away from open windows and leaky ceiling-spots and transferred all the meds to new boxes on elevated surfaces. Luckily, the meds are undamaged. (And I'm thinking of providing some plastic storage shelves....)

The clinic eventually did decide to close for the afternoon, so I spent the extra time in the house, listening to the wind literally howl outside. Just as we were lighting candles to settle down for an evening without power, the lights came back on. We were very lucky to be without power for only a day. (For many people, including the clinic, the lack of power also means no running water, since the pipes are powered by an electric pump, so we're also lucky to not need a pump.)

Tuesday and Wednesday passed with more wind and rain, though the clinic was open both days. On Tuesday word was out about another danger in addition to the storm. A barge carrying 50,000 barrels of combustible gasoline had run aground about ten miles out to sea from the city. In the wind and churning water, the hull was being ground against the sea-floor, causing wear and friction. But nobody could do anything because the storm conditions were too dangerous. Locals were fearing an explosion; some even talked about an explosion-caused "tsunami" that would come drench the shore-line, including our clinic/my house. Officials monitored the ship and waited out the storm for the last two days. And while I haven't officially heard it, I bet they were able to get out there today. So far no massive explosions!

We are all relieved that the storm appears over. While damage in my area wasn't too extensive, other parts of the country truly suffered. As of yesterday, there were over forty people reported dead (mostly from mud-slides) and tens of thousands missing. Schools have been closed for most of the week. Entire crops of rice, tomatoes, and plantains were destroyed, ruining many farmers' livelihoods. And prices for these basic foods will rise in the cities. Telephone lines are down, and officials are worried that water reservoirs have been contaminated in many parts of the country. Rivers are swollen and roads and bridges are washed out. Our team has had trouble getting to communities because of a gas shortage and continued flooding. So even though the storm is over, the disaster continues.

I'm truly thankful for the safety of my family and co-workers, as well as my own. And it was wonderful to hear from you all once the electricity returned! This update has gotten longer than I intended, but I hope it helps all of you appreciate Dominican life in a natural disaster; it certainly opened my eyes to be here during this storm. Please keep this country and its people in your thoughts and prayers!

xo!